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Dear Tripler,
This is how I did it. I'm not telling you to do it this way. I suggest you read all the
fixes and decide what works best for you. First, a little history: The bike is of unknown
mileage. Second had worked when I got it, but under daily city use it started to slop out
under heavy acceleration, started to make chainsaw sounds, get worse. Finally it made
it refused to grab altogether. Total elapsed time of onset to failure, was a few weeks.
I then rode a few months just skipping past second. In my pics the motor is half apart,
this isn't necessary, I just combined the second fix the same time I was doing a
900cc upgrade and cam chain change.
WOLF
Materials
- Tube of black RTV silicone- From auto parts store-$4
- Dremel Chainsaw Sharpening bit #455- From Home Depot-$5.
- Motor Oil -From auto parts Store-$5
Tools
- Socket to fit oil drain plug Allen key for side cover.
- Snap ring pliers (optional-suggested)
- Needle-nose pliers
- 10mm socket and ratchet
- Dentist tools (optional-suggested) (you can fake them from cut coat hangers if needed)
- Oil drain pan.
- Usual assortment of hammers, screwdrivers, prybars, scrapers and the like.
Stuff you shouldn't have to buy that isn't a tool
- WD-40, or something like that.
- Emory cloth, or something like that.
- Carb or break cleaner, or something like that.
- Flannel rags
- Milk crate (to sit on, optional, if you intend to use your knees anytime soon)
- Something to lie on, like an old blanket (unless your shop floor is that clean)
The Job
- Drain oil, and put the bolt back ant tighten, before you forget.
- Put bike on center stand.
- Remove point cover (pic 1), Ignition stuff under it,
(Make a mark so you can put the timing plate back the same position), the shift lever and
the left side crankcase cover (pic 1).
- Remove the elusive "Countershaft Bearing Cover"
(pic 2, Note shifter arm passes through it.) It is tightly fit in and maybe 2" deep
inside, and will be a bit of a pain to pull out. (pic 3)
- Remove second gear from countershaft, using dentist tools. There is a
circlip and shim in front of it. The groove that the circlip is in may have
an edge that the second gear cannot get by, smooth shaft with emery cloth. (pic 4)
- On the back of second gear are about a half dozen slots. They, when functioning
properly mesh with the 3 bulges (called dogs, I don't know why they are called dogs,
they just are.) on the fifth gear, which is the next gear on the shaft. O.K.- the first
gear on the shaft is the second gear; the second gear on the shaft is the fifth gear.
Does that clarify things any? Now those dogs are the other half of the problem. They
are both supposed to be nice and sharp on the edges. Instead they have worn themselves
rounded. (pic 4, pic 5). Your mission, should you decide to accept is to redo those
offending edges.
- On second take your dremel with the chainsaw sharpener, stick it in the hole
(pic 6) and grind till it curves nevermore. Try to make it the same round as
the other side, and all the grooves the same distance apart. My tool was battery
powered, so it was a bit tedious. I just left it laying around and did a bit now
and then. I also cut a bit of an undercut. I believe this will pull the gears tighter.
When the tip of the stone wears round, try cutting the end off, hopefully
you can get another 2-3 square ends out of it. There seems not to be a heck of a lot
of contact area. Clean it nice when done.
- Same general deal with fifth gear. But it's a lot of work to get out, so leave it.
Just take out the shim and circlip, so they don't get in your way. Grind the gear, with
the pretty much same undercut without taking it out. Tuck some strips of flannel around
the gear so the grindings don't get in the crankcase. Keep the rags out of the Dremel.
Keep long hair out of the Dremel too.
- Clean the filings away and your done. Put some oil on the mess and button it up.
Put both shims on AFTER the second gear. It pushes things a little closer. Use a thin
layer of RTV on mating surfaces to avoid oil leaks.
- Replace oil.
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