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This originally was sent to the ytriples-l mailing list.
There have been many requests for Jack to resend it, we decided to post it here. Thanks Jack.
Triples Team,
As all of you are aware, a lot of our triples are 20+ years old. The wiring
harness is a critical component, and should be serviced, whether you're
familiar with this item or not. It's not difficult to perform the procedures
I am outlining below and only requires a few basic tools and locally obtained
materials.
This is a preventative maintenance fix that can eliminate a lot of
electrical probems that could occur now or in the near future. It's a bit time consuming,
but well worth the effort. Definitely a good cold weather project!
When the wiring harness was originally hand assembled, a lot of circuits
that were common to each other were combined with a small crimp type connector
within the wiring harness. These connectors can become loose from vibration,
and can also corrode causing high resistance connections or no connection
at all. It can also lead to high current drain resulting in extreme
overheatingof the wiring which results in melted wiring insulation and even fire in the
worst cases.
The harness was wrapped with electrical tape to prevent water, moisture,
dirt, etc. from deteriorating the wiring and internal crimp connections. You
can be sure that the tape is not in the best of condition after the number
of years that has passed since it was assembled. Below is a simple way to
eliminate future problems:
Materials and tools needed:
- Rosin core solder, 60/40 preferred.
- Soldering iron or gun. 40 watts or better preferred.
- Six inch nylon tie straps.
- Good brand of 1" or 2" electrical tape.
- Small side cutters.
- Small brass brush.
- Long nose pliers.
Procedure:
- Start from the rear end of the harness and disconnect all connections
and straps holding the harness to the frame. This will also involve
removing the seat, gas tank, and whatever else is necessary to remove
the harness. Different models have different arrangements.
- Remove the harness as far as the middle of the frame below the gas tank.
- Start from the rear and unwrap the tape until you see wiring that has
tape over it. Remove this tape from the wiring to expose the crimp
connector.
- Inspect the crimped wiring to see if it is tight and not corroded. If
the crimp is loose, tighten it with the long nose pliers.
- If the crimp is good, solder it to make the connection solid. Don't
overheat the connection. Apply solder while heating the connection.
Be careful! Excessive heat can melt the insulation! Take your time!
Make sure you get solder on all of the exposed wiring.
- If the crimp is corroded, use the brass brush until the copper wiring
and crimp connector are nice and clean. Then proceed with procedure
#5.
- Tape the crimped connection making sure to overlap it 1/2 inch on both
sides passed any exposed wiring that has been soldered.
- Begin taping the harness in an overlapping fashion of 1/2 inch. Tape
cables that extent from the harness from the outside towards the harness
in the same manner. Overlap these extensions as you proceed along the
harness. Use side cutters to cut the tape. Always overlap anywhere you
have stopped taping by 1/2 inch when you continue on with taping. When
you've reached the middle of the frame below the gas tank, reinstall
the harness towards the rear. You will then proceed towards the front
of the harness.
- When finished soldering and taping the harness, use the nylon tie straps
at the junctions where extended wiring flows from the main harness to
keep these extensions from breaking loose from the main harness when
they are stressed.
- After performing this procedure you will have extended the life of your
harness, which will improve electrical performance, safety, and the
chance of a breakdown.
It is also highly recommended that you clean all of the connectors and
the terminals within the connectors. Apply an ample amount of silicone
dielectric grease to each terminal. This will keep corrosion and water from
damaging the terminals.
Good Luck! I'm always here if anybody has questions. ....Jack....CBMMA
#100....
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